The Spiritual Town of Shimosuwa
Shimosuwa is located right in the heart of Nagano. It flourished centuries ago as a post town (a type of rest stop in the Edo era) situated at the intersection of the Nakasendo and Koshu Kaido Highways (famous travel routes). The Nakasendo is a historic highway running through the heart of Japan, utilized during the Edo Period (1603-1868) to travel between the former, imperial capital of Kyoto and the Tokugawa shogunate's newly installed seat of power in Edo (Tokyo). Though much of the route has been lost to modernization, some sections of restored trail, as well as a number of preserved post towns, still remain, providing visitors with an opportunity to experience Japan as it looked and felt centuries ago.
Suwa Taisha is one of Japan's oldest and most important shrines, so influential that it has spawned a network of thousands of affiliates across the country. This taisha, or ‘grand shrine,' is composed of four main shrines, of which two (Harumiya and Akimiya) are located here in Shimosuwa and are collectively known as Shimosha or the lower shrine. Suwa Taisha has been around since at least the 7th century and the details of its history are exceedingly complex, but the beauty of the architecture and the special atmosphere of the grounds are easily appreciated.
Jiunji is a spectacular and secluded zen temple with over 700 years of history and whose current buildings date from the Nakasendo era. It features a picturesque, cedar-lined approach, elegant, understated architecture, meticulously-maintained grounds, and no crowds to spoil the ambiance—or your photos. It’s a wonderful place to take a slow, thoughtful stroll, or to sit and think about everything and nothing all at the same time. Finding a more impressive temple with less fanfare just might be impossible, and if you’re in the Shimosuwa area it’s a must-visit site.
The Honjin Iwanami House is an incredible repository of priceless history. As Shimosuwa’s honjin, it was the accommodation for royalty and visitors of the highest class and welcomed a remarkable array of distinguished guests over the years. Evidence of these visits still exist in the form of sekifuda, wooden or paper placards that were brought by the guests and placed at the entrance of the residence to signify who would be staying and for how long. Perhaps most notably the Meiji Emperor himself paid a visit in 1880, not stopping overnight, but staying long enough for a meal in the garden-view tatami room. During the 1600 to 1800s, it was forbidden for anyone lower than daimyo status to even set foot on the grounds, but now it’s open to the general public and you have the option of enjoying matcha and manju in the very same place that the emperor once sat.
Sipping your tea and looking out over the immaculate garden that remains unchanged since the ancient highway’s heyday, while reflecting on your personal Nakasendo journey is the perfect way to wrap up an unforgettable experience.
Suwa Taisha is one of Japan's oldest and most important shrines, so influential that it has spawned a network of thousands of affiliates across the country. This taisha, or ‘grand shrine,' is composed of four main shrines, of which two (Harumiya and Akimiya) are located here in Shimosuwa and are collectively known as Shimosha or the lower shrine. Suwa Taisha has been around since at least the 7th century and the details of its history are exceedingly complex, but the beauty of the architecture and the special atmosphere of the grounds are easily appreciated.
Jiunji is a spectacular and secluded zen temple with over 700 years of history and whose current buildings date from the Nakasendo era. It features a picturesque, cedar-lined approach, elegant, understated architecture, meticulously-maintained grounds, and no crowds to spoil the ambiance—or your photos. It’s a wonderful place to take a slow, thoughtful stroll, or to sit and think about everything and nothing all at the same time. Finding a more impressive temple with less fanfare just might be impossible, and if you’re in the Shimosuwa area it’s a must-visit site.
The Honjin Iwanami House is an incredible repository of priceless history. As Shimosuwa’s honjin, it was the accommodation for royalty and visitors of the highest class and welcomed a remarkable array of distinguished guests over the years. Evidence of these visits still exist in the form of sekifuda, wooden or paper placards that were brought by the guests and placed at the entrance of the residence to signify who would be staying and for how long. Perhaps most notably the Meiji Emperor himself paid a visit in 1880, not stopping overnight, but staying long enough for a meal in the garden-view tatami room. During the 1600 to 1800s, it was forbidden for anyone lower than daimyo status to even set foot on the grounds, but now it’s open to the general public and you have the option of enjoying matcha and manju in the very same place that the emperor once sat.
Sipping your tea and looking out over the immaculate garden that remains unchanged since the ancient highway’s heyday, while reflecting on your personal Nakasendo journey is the perfect way to wrap up an unforgettable experience.
